Climbing Beginnings

A day on the rocks, Mas d'Oris

Essentially all I knew of the climbing here in Grenoble before coming was this quote I found on Mountain Project: «The amount of climbable rock in the area is staggering.» When I arrived, this was apparent. The city is surrounded on all sides by tree and cliff covered mountains composed of limestone. They are not so different than my hills at home, but steeper and with distinct shape. They are beautiful and easily seen from most everywhere in the valley, save for the heart of the city. There are three mountain ranges: the Chartreuse to the North, the Vercors to the South East, and the Belledonne to the South West. The Belledonne are granite and are the gateway to the French Alps.

La Prairie at Fontaine

«The city itself has a number of cragging options.» Another quote from Mountain Proect which I found quite apparent upon arrival. This aspect of the city, you may rest assured, has been taken advantage of. At this point, I have ridden my bike to the three general areas and climbed at seven different walls. I bought the Isere Valley topo (guidebook for Grenoble, the Chartreuse and the Vercors which border Grenoble) my first day in the city and found the rocks soon thereafter. I was ready to go! All I needed was a climbing partner. For several days I searched, literally asking folks that looked like climbers if they were. In this manner, I found several! I met two guys from Poland---Adam and Lukasz---and we, on our bikes, have been climbing together since the first week! Recently, more people---German friends---have been coming and it has always been a great time!! We've made a group chat, La Pierre du Diable – 9c+, of which the number of members has been steadily growing. Much excite!! I have also made a climbing group, Bonne Grimpe – Grenoble. Essentially, the chat was becoming a little over-bearing and it was easy to miss information. Now I am starting a little friend club of folks that might want to go climb! I am also a member of several climbing clubs on facebook that I can use to meet new climbers in the area, students and not.

A beautifully colored limestone wall.

The actual climbing here has been significantly different than back home on sandstone. The limestone crags are smooth-feeling for the most part with deep pockets (holes in the rock), small seams (for your crimping pleasure!), a generally overhanging nature, and interesting coloration where the water runs. It feels smooth and is very slick when wet (I have unfortunately found that out a couple times!). I have also climbed on extremely featured walls that have so many holds it's difficult to choose! Sometimes the feet can feel a little insecure because of the smooth nature, and it has taken me some time to adjust to this mentally. I am also having a somewhat difficult time getting onto very crimpy routes, as I peel off the holds I feel I would usually be able to stick. I have done several technical climbs that I found very fun and challenging and I am excited to get moving into higher grades where I feel the quality of the climbing will feel better. I have been steadily moving up in grades and the hardest thing I've climbed is 6b+, 5.11a. 

A common anchor.

Can you find the second quickdraw? ;) Runnin' it out in "Terrain d'Aventure"

The protection options are interesting. Everything is bolted. I find that the bolting here is sometimes kinda sporadic and I often find routes with very run out sections or what I would consider poor bolt placement (not the best landings). I always bring my tricams, as they go everywhere and make this less of an issue. Bolting is also just something one has to consider before getting on a route, as who knows when they were placed there and by whom. The bolts come in two forms: bolts with traditional hangers, or glued in rings. The rings are interesting but I think they're bomber. . . . I have climbed twice on what the topo calls «Terrain d'Aventure.» This essentially means they are really tall, done in multiple pitches, they cannot guarantee the quality of the protection, there are possibilities of rock fall, and that the routes have an air of, might I say. . .mystery. What I've learned is to always, always bring traditional protection options on these climbs if ya got it. Also, be prepared to rappel off. But, with that said, they have been exciting adventures and I have learned the most from these two days!

A pulley system I built. Also, a good example of how I rig multi-pitch sport anchors. 

I trust it.

My experiences have dictated that I practice many different technical skills. I have built anchors, done multi-pitch rappels and belays, built a pulley system, climbed ropes, cleaned routes and sport anchors, taught people how to lead, clean, and belay, and placed traditional protection. Besides basic belay and leading technique, I think that is close to an extensive list of the skills I've needed. It has been exciting to use the skills I've learned in the past and put into practice some I've read of but have not used in the field. I am always researching and analysing my techniques to optimize my methods and to do things in the most efficient and safest manner possible.

With each outing I've learned a lot. Looking back, I've now climbed outside 13 different days. In the beginning, I was simply trying to get out and have some fun with new people. At this point, it has become more of a self-pushing, learning and growing experience each time. Disclaimer: many of things I will say I've learned I already knew, I just now have a solid understanding of. I will begin each lesson with *CAPITAL WORDS. *ONE OF the biggest things I've learned is to always wear a helmet. I very happy I bought and brought mine, and I truly think it is more important to have it on when not climbin' for protection against falling rocks and bodies, though I always climb with mine, as well. *I ALSO always tie a barrel knot (double overhand) in the bottom of my rope. This, I feel, is more bomber than a figure-8 or overhand. It just simply will not go through a belay device or come untied. It is now the knot I put at the bottom of each of my rappel ropes and at the end of the rope when I lead or top-rope, so as not to lower the climber off the rope after climbing. *USE A properly dressed single overhand knot to attach rappel ropes with 1/2 meter of tail. Do not use a figure 8. One can do another overhand on top for backup. *I NOW have a new method for cleaning routes in which I back myself up with the rope, as well as being in-direct to the wall. When I untie myself from the rope to clean, I leave the rope through a quickdraw at the top until I am finished threading the rope into the anchor. I pull enough slack through the quickdraw to re-thread the anchor and clove hitch the rope to a locker on my belay loop. Thus, I am in-direct to the anchor and also still on the rope, so when I untie I still have the rope as a part of my system. Redundancy. *I HAVE also developed a new method for going in-direct to the wall (anchoring myself into an anchor so my belayer can take me off belay). I have purchased a 2 meter length of dynamic climbing rope (9mm) that I am always tied in to. It has a locker on a figure 8 on the end and another locker clove hitched in the middle. (UPDATE: this system is slightly different now, optimization persists. . .) The idea is that I can attach in with the biner on the end and then adjust my distance from the wall with the other. I like this method because I am using a dynamic component to attach myself directly to the anchor, thus drastically mitigating the load on the anchor in the event of a factor two fall on the anchor. I can also be attached in to two points.  *I NO LONGER tie a knot in any sling I use to attach myself to anything. DMM released a video showing slings failing under certain conditions and any knot drastically weakens the strength of the cord. Thus, when I do a rappel (I always do an extended rappel with a back-up prussik below the belay device, unable to reach the belay device), I do not tie a knot in the sling I attach to the belay device. *DO NOT tie the ends of the rope together when rappelling, as this makes the ropes wrap around each other. *JUST DON'T rappel off of bolts. The rope will get stuck or damaged and this is just dumb. *MAKE SURE there are no language barriers and that the difference between rappelling and lowering after a climb is always extremely clear before anyone leaves the ground. When in doubt, leave your friend on belay. *ALWAYS DO a buddy check before leaving, checking the knot is good and threaded through both harness loops, the rope is threaded though the belay device properly, the carabiner is properly locked, and that both harnesses are on correctly. *ALWAYS BRING your trad gear when going into adventure terrain. 

 

Where I go for my climbing class each Wednesday. . .last class of the week!

Looking forward, I am excited to develop more skills, become a better climber, and continue to develop ideas for climbing systems optimization. To develop my skills, I follow several websites that regularly release tips, stories, and offer technical skills (rockandice.com and climbing.com, primarily). I have begun to research different sites in French in order to refine my knowledge of the technical language of climbing in French. This will come also from climbing more French people. I also consistently search online for techniques on rope management, knot-lore, and self-rescue systems. Always be prepared! In order to become a better climber, I have begun to start training. This involves running, a lot of push-ups and core exercises, and I have a climbing class one day per week. During this class we literally just burn laps on lead in the gym. It's pretty fun. This week I will ask my teachers for advice they have in accomplishing my goal. . . .I want to lead and finish a 7a by Halloween. That is a pretty difficult grade, and reaching this goal will be a stretch. The hardest thing I have finished at this point is 6b+. I need to stay determined, always climb with good technique, start down-climbing more, and perhaps add in some finger strengthening routines. Let's do this!! Finally, a very big goal of mine in coming to France was to develop ideas for ways to optimize rock climbing equipment and perhaps even begin to design my own prototypes. I have begun to do this by designing my own personal anchoring system. :) I will keep searching for problems to solve and I am excited to do some brain storming after each challenge or setback to see if I can make the situation better, somehow. . . .

This is my first prototype for a personal anchoring system. I have since moved away from many aspects of this design, but it was a good start. Keepin' on engineerin'!

And with that, climb safe my friends!!! I hope you enjoyed!

-Hy