It's a good Wednesday for a Friday!
My schedule, miraculously, is such that I don't have classes on Thursdays or Fridays each week, and thus have a four day weekend. The weekdays are days for school, being-a-grown-up things, and training. The weekends bring adventures, great people, and time for peace. This weekend, starting tomorrow on Thursday, marks the beginning of our week-long Autumn vacation! I will be heading to Paris and Forêt Fontainbleau, meeting friends and new friends, and exploring a new city and a magical forest. Allons-y!
All my classes are two hours in length and occur once a week. There is often a short "pose" in the middle for the rest room and smoking. There is not, however, any time in between classes. . . .they all, for the most part in my university, start and end on the hour! I have one Monday, and three each Tuesday and Wednesday. For the most part there is not homework. We tend to have one big project for each class and then final exams. All have final exams, but some also have essays, smaller tests, homework sheets, presentations, or combinations there-of. For the most part, the workload is significantly less than my engineering courses back in the states. A big part of this is subject matter, perhaps, but I feel like the structure and objective here are just slightly different, in general. I can't articulate the difference at this point, and I may return/add something to this point later on. . . .don't let the anticipation kill you. ;D
My week begins with a 10a philosophy class. I love the start time, it allows for morning activities; these include runs, great breakfasts, and sleeping in. The class discusses the birth of the world, and we discuss a text for each class. One must prepare a discussion for one of these texts before the class and submit a paper, optionally presenting the text verbally, as well. I'll be turning mine in for the last class, studying the argumentation techniques and ameliorating my French beforehand, as it is our only grade besides the final for the class. For the first half of the two-hour lesson, the teacher discusses the students' text from previous week. After a short break, the second hour resumes with the students presenting the next week's text. Discussions generally concern a deity or involve material's creation and whether or not it is conserved. I really like the teacher, as he is very clear, helpful, and kind.
Tuesday I have a course at 8:30, 12, and 14. The morning is French grammar for Study Abroad which I've been really enjoying. Cool people (with name-tags!), a genuine and knowledgeable teacher, and learning! I have my only class in English at noon, Aspects of Modern France. I was really excited to learn about modern French culture and current events and. . . .what I didn't realize was that Modern history runs from roughly 1350 to 1750. Of course! Modern. It is quite cool to learn about French history. I really like that we use a more analytical history method, looking at trends, how events shaped the world's experience, and how social structures developed within different eras and under different rules. I had my first exam in this class yesterday, an essay on class relationships in a feudal system. Felt pretty solid. The test papers are really interesting in that they have a lick-shut corner---like a stamp---that one covers their name with for anonymous grading. At 2p (after 6-7 seconds of break. . .luckily the classrooms are virtually adjacent!), I start my Philosophie d'Amour class. I'm kinda strugglin' in this one. I've started sitting closer to the front for this one, but it is difficult to concentrate and comprehend (mutually exclusive) for two hours after a solid two hour course. It is a methodology course and I think my French philosophy methodology techniques are sub-par. :) Workin' on 'em!
Tuesday evening I train. I go to La Piscine, the pool, which is essentially the university athletic recreation center. There is an incredible bouldering cave, campus wrungs (wooden strips of different sizes for laddering up with no feet), campus boards for finger training, and a full gymnasium for, well, gymnastics! Everything a kinesthetic athlete could ask for! (There's also a gym next door for weights for you bros and bras!) It's fantastic. Here I focus on power and technique. I boulder for about two hours. Then spend 1-2 more hours training my core, shoulders, back, and arms. It's legit. I have begun to start regimenting my training, which feels really good. It's still climbing season, so I limit my climbing training to two days a week, and sometimes work pushing muscles/cardio another day. The first day is for power, technique, and body conditioning. The second day is for endurance, lead technique, mileage, and legs.
Wednesday (AKA Friday) I begin at 8a. Rough. However, the class is Geographie des Montagnes, and I really enjoy the content of this one. It is my only lecture hall style courses and I essentially re-type PowerPoint slides. We learn about how people in the area have and do interact with the mountains around us. We discuss alpinism, skiing, tourism, explorations and topography, specific mountains, and other geography-y things. It's really cool. One thing I enjoyed learning was that in 1492, while Columbus sailed the ocean blue, Mont Aiguille was summited, too (for the first time!) This marks what many consider to be the birth of Alpinism, and was done under the kings' orders using rope-knot protection! I learned of this mountain back in October 2014, and it has been a goal of mine to climb it since. Hearing about this on the first day of this class really got the stoke up, and I've really enjoyed the rest of the class. Right after I have my French Langauge for Study Abroad class! It's great! FLE, Francais Langue Etranger A2/B1 (the numbers representing our language proficiency). I really enjoy this class and it is taught by the same professor as my pre-semester FLE class, as well, who I really like. After (yeah three in a row!), I finish the week with. . . .drumroll. . . .rock climbin', yo. This is my climbing class where I essentially. . .just climb. As much as possible. We have a cool gym with an overhung (semi-inverted) bouldering wall and many-angled lead walls, including a huge, prowling, warped roof system. Sooo cool. After crushing on plastic, workin' the legs, and a hang-board exercise. . . .it's the weekend.
Thursday to Sunday I usually. . .climb. I occasionally go out Wednesday, Thursday, or Saturday night. The French really like to party Thursdays, because many go home Friday night for the weekend. Kinda tradition, I suppose. I usually prefer to rest up to get out into the woods. . .And it is here that truly live on the weekends. Here I spend my time experiencing France in exactly the way I wanted to: with stoked and awesome friends exploring cliffs, mountains, and our personal strengths and weaknesses. It's just been truly wild and wonderful, and I can't believe how much longer I get to do this. If I've been livin' in Almost Heaven all my life. . .I've found pretty damn close to the real thing.
And this weekend, things are only lookin' up.
Next week is our Autumn Vacation! Thus, I have no classes until November 2. So what's a guy to do? Well, buy a 1€, two-way bus ticket to Paris, of course! I'll be heading for the weekend to Paris on Saturday with my two Polish buddies, Adam and Łukasz. We're hopefully staying with friends of theirs' in the city Saturday night, then heading with a friend of mine to his house, south of the city, on Sunday evening! Crazy enough, I met him at my going away party. I guess I was the only one there who spoke French or something, so we hung out, went bouldering the next day at Coopers Rock, and decided to meet up sometime this year! With Nicolas, we head to Fontainbleau Forest Monday morning!!
Foret Fontainbleau is considered by many to be the best bouldering location in France, and one of the best and most historical in the world. Luckily, Adam has been there 6 or 7 times, knows some good spots (there's thousands of boulders), and has friends whos' crash pads we can borrow! We'll be camping for the week and climbing. . .a lot. :D I'm super stoked. It is peak season right now (Rocktober!), so there should be a lot of really cool people to meet and climb with. I think we may have a few people travelling up independently to meet us as well, which will be super cool if everything works out. At some point (when we can't climb anymore), we'll mosey on back to Paris and. . .yeah, be in Paris, man! Monday (yeah, have to miss class. . . .), we take the bus back to Grenoble!! It will certainly be an adventure, and I'm super stoked! Gonna be spending the next couple days preparing and gettin' the stoke up!
The next two days will be really nice as well. Tomorrow morning, I will run to Decathlon, a sports-store, and pick up some camping gear. Then I have a skype chat with momma! Hopefully I'll get to see the bros! :) Tomorrow evening. . .it's time for Halloween!! This year I am going as George Clinton from Parliament Funkadelic. I'm super stoked. I've always thought this would make an awesome costume but have never had dreads to dye all different colors. . .now's my chance! :D Friday, I'm gonna crush on some rocks or somethin'. Should be good.
Anyhow, that's what school is like for me, how my weekends usually roll, and the exciting events in the near future! Keep in touch, y'all! It's always great to hear from ya, and I'll keep reaching out to folks as I can! I seriously hope everything is wonderful for you. Let life treat you good, and soak it all in!
Votre ami,
Hy
I will be studying abroad in Grenoble, France from September 2015-July 2016. This blog serves to document the experience, offer useful information on rock climbing techniques, and give study abroad students some tips and tricks.
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Thursday, October 22, 2015
Sunday, October 11, 2015
A Weekend With Ceuse and Chartreuse
This weekend was unreal.
My schedule of classes, luckily for me, leaves my Thursdays and Fridays free. I have three days of school then 4 days of weekend, essentially. It's pretty crazy and I would never have expected things to work out so perfectly. It's marvellous.
On Tuesday, my friend Adam from Poland suggested the idea of visiting Nice and how we had some friends going. . . .and that Ceuse was on the way and half the distance. If you don't know, Ceuse Mountain is a world-renown limestone sport climbing crag 3 kilometers long in the south of France. It is host to some of the hardest routes and has vast expanses of unclimbed rock waiting for those prepared to take the world of climbing to the next level. . .
Well, I was decided on going before he was. As soon as he uttered the word "Ceuse" I knew what I was doing this weekend. I posted on several different facebook groups I am a part of and asked if anyone had a car and wanted to drive. Well, on Wednesday, I got a message. . . and we were going!! Adam, my friend Isabelle from Germany, and I were hoppin' in the car with Ania, also from Poland!
Then, the waiting begins. . . .Thursday came and I had my first big presentation (Exposé) in French for the semester. I had the option to choose any topic I wanted to talk about for 15 minutes and be graded on. Naturally, I chose to give a presentation on the climbing system, different types of climbing, and how to use all the typical equipment for a day out on the rocks. It was a really fantastic opportunity to force me to learn all of the different names of equipment and systems which is very important for safety when out at the crag. I think I got high marks. She said I did very well, she was impressed by my knowledge of the system and vocabulary, but that I need to work on learning more verbs to describe what to do with all the things! Great advice!
After the Expose on Thursday I, for the first time, found someone from France to go climb with on the facebook groups. We went out to a place called Le Petit Desert in the Vercors mountain range. It was very fun and was an excellent opportunity for me to fortify my knowledge of climbing's technical language in French. And I got to lead 5 pitches on wonderful rock. . .great for one day of climbing!
Thursday evening involved watching football (the European kind) and hanging out at Parc Paul Mistral!
Friday was a rest day and, to my memory, was deliberately uneventful, save for preparation for. . . .
:D The WEEEEKEEEEEND!!!! :D
Yea! YEa! YEA! Saturday morning. I woke up to Travel by Lotus and was ready. I was stoked. I was so. freakin'. hyped! I just couldn't believe I was about to hope in a car to one of France's and the world's best rock climbing areas. I just couldn't believe it. And off I went!
The drive down was really fun and involved playing with knots and carabiners in the back seat while checking out the beautiful landscapes and cities on our route. The first time we saw it, the wall. . .I was amazed. It was a beautiful, perfectly smooth-looking wall which circumvented a tall, majestic mountain.
Oh. Yeah.
We could see the wall for almost 45 minutes before we actually got to the base of the mountain. . .there was much anticipation and excitement mounting! We finally arrived at the parking area after some adventuring and set off up the mountain! The ladies looked at the map while Adam and I asked some climber guys for the good way up the mountain. Well, "In guys we trust," we decided and followed the climbers advice, hoping it would lead us to the trail on the map the ladies suggested. In retrospect, we should all have looked at the map. . . or just known that the women would be right. We lost the "trail" that we
were on while trying to take the "shortcut trail" we were looking for. This turned into bush-whacking strait up the mountain in an attempt to merge our path with the road we knew was somewhere around halfway up. . . .well. . . .yea. We didn't find it. We hiked and hiked (Straight up this mountain following animal trails) until we found this large boulder and were like, "maybe we can see where to go from on top!" We started to climb around the boulder when Isi says, "The TRAIL!" HA! Just above the boulder. . .what luck! We lost a lot of time in that hilarious escapade up the mountain, but I feel we learned something in the process. . . maybe. Anyhow, we finally reached the crag after some serious 2nd/3rd class hiking.
The climbing was fantastic. I lead first a 6a called Le Petit Monstre. It was a technical slab climb and a stout introduction to Ceuse grading. Pretty fun and mentally challenging route for me. My friends got warmed up on some top rope action and all, after some work, got the send! I next moved to another 6a, Carte Noire, a very classic, technical Ceuse line. I just couldn't believe what I was climbing, honestly. The moves were beautiful. There were four bolts of over-hung pocket pulling (move fast) which led to 6-7 more bolts on a wonderfully featured just-under-vertical wall. While climbing this route I was overcome by. . .peace. I just danced, felt, and was. The holds were small and sharp, the feet were solid and abundant, the view and exposure was unbelievable, and it just. . .felt so damn good!! I think this is my favorite pitch
(of about 40!) that I've done in France, so far.
After, I got an a 6a+ Papyrus, another classic. It was great, the same rock and even smaller, cooler feeling holds. The beginning over-hung section was fantastic. Moving into the face above I got caught up in a funky sequence, pumped out, and blew my send. Afterwards, I cruised the rest of the beautiful line, and loved it as well. There's just something about not sending a climb that messes with me and I certainly lose some satisfaction from it. The feeling of on-sighting a climb is very magical to me, and it is a shame to lose that one opportunity for the feeling. I try now to replace that dissatisfaction with a new fire to return for the send. I will be back.
The day ended beautifully. We pulled the ropes and watched the sunset overtake the landscape as the first stars came out. Together, we hiked down the mountain in darkness with abundant laughter, sore bodies, and a feeling of awe as to what we experienced this day. . .Ceuse is a magical, beautiful place, and there is no doubt I will be back. Very soon. That night, the stars filled the sky like I've never seen. I suppose it is that way in the mountains, when one is so close to the sky. I truly saw the Milky Way for the first time and learned how to find the North Star using the Big Dipper. After the journey home, I fell asleep with a happy heart.
Sunday began with friends. Adam and Isabelle joined me for breakfast and we made French toast. And I'm talking like, legit style. We busted out the baguettes (French toast, right?), had vanilla-sugar and cinnamon, not to mention the real maple syrup we got. . .with coffee. Oh yeah. Breakfast was primo. As I like to say. . . "Un GRAND petit dejeuner." And with bellies full, we set off on the day's conquest. . .
Today we hiked Mont St. Eynard in the Chartreuse Mountains, 1,167 meters above the city. We rode our bikes to the base of mountain and got hikin'! We were following a GPS on Adam's iPhone (Google maps, essentially) that showed us a trail leading up. Well, we followed the trail and all was going great. It was a really fun hike, we found a stunning meadow, and the fall leaves were fantastic. As we hiked up a small ridge to where the mountain begins to become very steep, we started to move diagonally across the mountain, as I expected. However, after 20-30 minutes of this traverse. . . .the trail ended. Adam checked the map and we had been walking for this whole time completely on the wrong trail and into what the map considered the wilderness. Ha. Smooth. Once again, bush whacking. Realizing there was no hope in joining our former trail, we began hiking straight up the mountain towards the nearest one we could find, which we proceeded to follow to the top.
The top of this mountain was amazing and offers the best view of the city I have seen thus far. Visibility was low today, as the valley had trapped a cloud in the city. Fortunately for us, we had hiked significantly higher than this cloud, and the view above it was fantastic. We stayed on the summit for maybe an hour, relaxing and snacking, taking in the view, snappin' selfies, seeing an antique car parade, and enjoying our company.
And then. . .
The descent. The "de-proach." I'm sure you can guess what happens next. Well, we follow the path back down the mountain until we reach the point of intersection of our original path (the one we lost earlier in the day) and the new, saviour path. The original path, on Google maps, was certainly a better option as it went straight to where we wanted to go! Perfect! Yet. . . .there was no path. Well, "In google we trust!" We decided to just start walking through the woods following the GPS trail until we found something that resembled a trail. This actually totally worked. However, the trail we found. . .should certainly not be on Google maps. This thing was crazy. It was VERY steep (3rd/4th class) and for the most part, if you fell, you were going to roll down the mountain (that would be devastating, it was extremely steep) or fall off (what we realized after having climbed below them to be) two 150 foot cliff faces. And our path went right between the two of them. There was a lot of, "Hey, you really don't wanna fall here, OK?"s going around. It was seriously nuts and really, really fun. 2nd level fun. Finally, we found our original path and again found ourselves in the field. Woo! Embracing our inner children, we subsequently decided to roll down the hill. And oh my gosh! Was this fun or what?!? haha! I haven't rolled down a hill in a long time! And dang, I went seriously fast!! I got my technique down, or something, because I was flying! After this (yes, there's a video), we finished our decent, hopped back on the bikes, and now I find myself full-belly on my bed, strait chillin'.
Yep, folks, that's how you have a hell of a weekend.
Much love,
Hy
My schedule of classes, luckily for me, leaves my Thursdays and Fridays free. I have three days of school then 4 days of weekend, essentially. It's pretty crazy and I would never have expected things to work out so perfectly. It's marvellous.
On Tuesday, my friend Adam from Poland suggested the idea of visiting Nice and how we had some friends going. . . .and that Ceuse was on the way and half the distance. If you don't know, Ceuse Mountain is a world-renown limestone sport climbing crag 3 kilometers long in the south of France. It is host to some of the hardest routes and has vast expanses of unclimbed rock waiting for those prepared to take the world of climbing to the next level. . .
Well, I was decided on going before he was. As soon as he uttered the word "Ceuse" I knew what I was doing this weekend. I posted on several different facebook groups I am a part of and asked if anyone had a car and wanted to drive. Well, on Wednesday, I got a message. . . and we were going!! Adam, my friend Isabelle from Germany, and I were hoppin' in the car with Ania, also from Poland!
Le Tour Perret in Parc Paul Mistral |
Thursday evening involved watching football (the European kind) and hanging out at Parc Paul Mistral!
Friday was a rest day and, to my memory, was deliberately uneventful, save for preparation for. . . .
:D The WEEEEKEEEEEND!!!! :D
Yea! YEa! YEA! Saturday morning. I woke up to Travel by Lotus and was ready. I was stoked. I was so. freakin'. hyped! I just couldn't believe I was about to hope in a car to one of France's and the world's best rock climbing areas. I just couldn't believe it. And off I went!
The drive down was really fun and involved playing with knots and carabiners in the back seat while checking out the beautiful landscapes and cities on our route. The first time we saw it, the wall. . .I was amazed. It was a beautiful, perfectly smooth-looking wall which circumvented a tall, majestic mountain.
First view of Ceuse Mountain |
Getting closer! |
Making it up the mountain! |
The climbing was fantastic. I lead first a 6a called Le Petit Monstre. It was a technical slab climb and a stout introduction to Ceuse grading. Pretty fun and mentally challenging route for me. My friends got warmed up on some top rope action and all, after some work, got the send! I next moved to another 6a, Carte Noire, a very classic, technical Ceuse line. I just couldn't believe what I was climbing, honestly. The moves were beautiful. There were four bolts of over-hung pocket pulling (move fast) which led to 6-7 more bolts on a wonderfully featured just-under-vertical wall. While climbing this route I was overcome by. . .peace. I just danced, felt, and was. The holds were small and sharp, the feet were solid and abundant, the view and exposure was unbelievable, and it just. . .felt so damn good!! I think this is my favorite pitch
(of about 40!) that I've done in France, so far.
First time taking on-the-rock pics for me |
Isabelle following Carte Noir, 6a |
After, I got an a 6a+ Papyrus, another classic. It was great, the same rock and even smaller, cooler feeling holds. The beginning over-hung section was fantastic. Moving into the face above I got caught up in a funky sequence, pumped out, and blew my send. Afterwards, I cruised the rest of the beautiful line, and loved it as well. There's just something about not sending a climb that messes with me and I certainly lose some satisfaction from it. The feeling of on-sighting a climb is very magical to me, and it is a shame to lose that one opportunity for the feeling. I try now to replace that dissatisfaction with a new fire to return for the send. I will be back.
This is the view from the anchor of Papyrus, 6a+ (5.10c) |
The day ended beautifully. We pulled the ropes and watched the sunset overtake the landscape as the first stars came out. Together, we hiked down the mountain in darkness with abundant laughter, sore bodies, and a feeling of awe as to what we experienced this day. . .Ceuse is a magical, beautiful place, and there is no doubt I will be back. Very soon. That night, the stars filled the sky like I've never seen. I suppose it is that way in the mountains, when one is so close to the sky. I truly saw the Milky Way for the first time and learned how to find the North Star using the Big Dipper. After the journey home, I fell asleep with a happy heart.
As the sun sets over the mountains. . . |
Sunday began with friends. Adam and Isabelle joined me for breakfast and we made French toast. And I'm talking like, legit style. We busted out the baguettes (French toast, right?), had vanilla-sugar and cinnamon, not to mention the real maple syrup we got. . .with coffee. Oh yeah. Breakfast was primo. As I like to say. . . "Un GRAND petit dejeuner." And with bellies full, we set off on the day's conquest. . .
Let's get hikin'! |
Two photos from the top. Notice the cloud line underneath us. . . |
The top of this mountain was amazing and offers the best view of the city I have seen thus far. Visibility was low today, as the valley had trapped a cloud in the city. Fortunately for us, we had hiked significantly higher than this cloud, and the view above it was fantastic. We stayed on the summit for maybe an hour, relaxing and snacking, taking in the view, snappin' selfies, seeing an antique car parade, and enjoying our company.
We followed the left-most ridge on the way up. |
"In Google we trust." |
Oh OK, that way! |
Yep, folks, that's how you have a hell of a weekend.
Much love,
Hy
Monday, October 5, 2015
Climbing Beginnings
A day on the rocks, Mas d'Oris |
Essentially all I knew of the climbing here in Grenoble before coming was this quote I found on Mountain Project: «The amount of climbable rock in the area is staggering.» When I arrived, this was apparent. The city is surrounded on all sides by tree and cliff covered mountains composed of limestone. They are not so different than my hills at home, but steeper and with distinct shape. They are beautiful and easily seen from most everywhere in the valley, save for the heart of the city. There are three mountain ranges: the Chartreuse to the North, the Vercors to the South East, and the Belledonne to the South West. The Belledonne are granite and are the gateway to the French Alps.
La Prairie at Fontaine |
A beautifully colored limestone wall. |
A common anchor. |
Can you find the second quickdraw? ;) Runnin' it out in "Terrain d'Aventure" |
A pulley system I built. Also, a good example of how I rig multi-pitch sport anchors. |
I trust it. |
With
each outing I've learned a lot. Looking back, I've now climbed
outside 13 different days. In the beginning, I was simply trying to
get out and have some fun with new people. At this point, it has
become more of a self-pushing, learning and growing experience each
time. Disclaimer: many of things I will say I've learned
I already knew, I just now have a solid understanding of. I
will begin each lesson with *CAPITAL WORDS. *ONE
OF the biggest things I've
learned is to always wear a helmet. I very happy I bought and brought
mine, and I truly think it is more important to have it on when not
climbin'
for protection against falling rocks and bodies, though
I always climb with mine, as well. *I ALSO always tie a barrel knot
(double overhand) in the bottom of my rope. This, I feel, is more
bomber than a figure-8 or overhand. It just simply will not go
through a belay device or come untied. It is now the knot I put at
the bottom of each of my rappel ropes and at the end of the rope when
I lead or top-rope, so as not to lower the climber off the rope after
climbing. *USE A properly
dressed single overhand knot to
attach rappel ropes with 1/2 meter of tail. Do not use a figure 8.
One can do another overhand on top for backup. *I
NOW have a new method for cleaning routes in which I back myself up
with the rope, as well as being in-direct to the wall. When I untie
myself from the rope to clean, I leave the rope through a quickdraw
at the top until I am finished threading the rope into the anchor. I
pull enough slack through the quickdraw to re-thread the anchor and
clove hitch the rope to a locker on my belay loop. Thus, I am
in-direct to the anchor and also still on the rope, so when I untie I
still have the rope as a part of my system. Redundancy. *I HAVE also
developed a new method for going in-direct to the wall (anchoring
myself into an anchor so my belayer can take me off belay). I have
purchased a 2 meter length of dynamic climbing rope (9mm) that I am
always tied in to. It has a locker on a figure 8 on the end and
another locker clove hitched in the middle. (UPDATE: this system is slightly different now, optimization persists. . .) The idea is that I can
attach in with the biner on the end and then adjust my distance from
the wall with the other. I like this method because I am using a
dynamic component to attach myself directly to the anchor, thus
drastically mitigating the load on the anchor in the event of a
factor two fall on the anchor. I can also be attached in to two
points. *I NO LONGER tie a
knot in any sling I use to attach myself to anything. DMM released a
video showing slings failing under certain conditions and any knot
drastically weakens the strength of the cord. Thus, when I do a
rappel (I always do an extended rappel with a back-up prussik below
the belay device, unable to reach the belay device), I do not tie a
knot in the sling I attach to the belay device. *DO
NOT tie the ends of the rope together when rappelling, as this makes
the ropes wrap around each other. *JUST DON'T rappel off of bolts.
The rope will get stuck or
damaged and this is just
dumb. *MAKE SURE there are no language barriers and that the
difference between rappelling and lowering after
a climb is always extremely
clear before anyone leaves
the ground. When in doubt,
leave your friend on belay. *ALWAYS
DO a buddy check before leaving, checking the knot is good and
threaded through both harness loops, the rope is threaded though the
belay device properly, the carabiner is properly locked, and that
both harnesses are on correctly. *ALWAYS
BRING your trad gear when going into adventure terrain.
Where I go for my climbing class each Wednesday. . .last class of the week! |
Looking forward, I am excited to develop more skills, become a better climber, and continue to develop ideas for climbing systems optimization. To develop my skills, I follow several websites that regularly release tips, stories, and offer technical skills (rockandice.com and climbing.com, primarily). I have begun to research different sites in French in order to refine my knowledge of the technical language of climbing in French. This will come also from climbing more French people. I also consistently search online for techniques on rope management, knot-lore, and self-rescue systems. Always be prepared! In order to become a better climber, I have begun to start training. This involves running, a lot of push-ups and core exercises, and I have a climbing class one day per week. During this class we literally just burn laps on lead in the gym. It's pretty fun. This week I will ask my teachers for advice they have in accomplishing my goal. . . .I want to lead and finish a 7a by Halloween. That is a pretty difficult grade, and reaching this goal will be a stretch. The hardest thing I have finished at this point is 6b+. I need to stay determined, always climb with good technique, start down-climbing more, and perhaps add in some finger strengthening routines. Let's do this!! Finally, a very big goal of mine in coming to France was to develop ideas for ways to optimize rock climbing equipment and perhaps even begin to design my own prototypes. I have begun to do this by designing my own personal anchoring system. :) I will keep searching for problems to solve and I am excited to do some brain storming after each challenge or setback to see if I can make the situation better, somehow. . . .
This is my first prototype for a personal anchoring system. I have since moved away from many aspects of this design, but it was a good start. Keepin' on engineerin'! |
And
with that, climb safe my friends!!! I hope you enjoyed!
-Hy
Essential Gear for Sport Climbing (Build Your Sport Rack)
This is
a list of all the gear I find necessary to go single or multi-pitch
sport climbing.
Gear:
-harness
-belay
device (ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso 4 style) with 2 locking pear-shaped carabiners, the extra for belaying
from the top
-prussik
for backing up rappels, attach to belay loop using extra carabiner
with belay device, I use 6mm, maybe 1m long loop.
-nylon
runner for extending rappels
-10-15
quick draws, some extendible or extra long (not all the same length)
-personal
anchoring system (some options are: 2m dynamic rope and 2 pear-shaped
locking carabiners; two nylon runners with 2 D-shaped locking
carabiners(do not use dyneema!); use quickdraws (not recommended); purchase a pre-built anchoring system)
This is necessary for multi-pitch while establishing rappels
-2
double length slings plus 4 D-shaped locking carabiners for building
an equalized anchor (x2 for multi-pitch)
-dynamic
climbing rope with middle mark
-crag
pack and/or rope bag
Head:
-helmet
-headlamp
-warm
hat
Body:
-base
layer
-synthetic shirt
-synthetic shirt
-synthetic
warm layer
-rain
jacket
Hands:
-chalk
bag
-gloves
for in between climbs
-hand
warmers for chalk bag during cold days
Legs:
-synthetic,
stretchy pants
-base
layer
Feet:
-wool
socks
-sturdy
hiking shoes/boots for approach and belay
-rock
climbing shoes (nice to be able to wear socks with shoes for cold
days)
Some variations are certainly possible and I do not make any claims of exhaustiveness. Climb safe, y'all!
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